What to Actually Buy for First Year Architecture

September 3, 2026
Jakar Draftline A3 drawing board with parallel motion
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Every September a version of the same conversation happens across the counter. Someone comes in with a printed list from the school, or no list at all, and a budget that has already taken a beating from rent and a laptop. They want to know what they genuinely need in week one.

Here is the honest answer, from a shop that has been kitting out Belfast studios since 1982.

Buy the portfolio first

It sounds like the least exciting thing on the list, and it is the one that catches people out. Studio work is produced at A1. Fold it to fit an A2 case and you have creased a drawing you spent two nights on, in front of the person marking it.

An A1 professional portfolio is the single purchase that protects everything else you make this year. Get it before your first hand-in, not after you have learned why you needed it.

A board, and a surface that stays flat

You will draw at home more than you expect. A drawing board with a parallel motion arm gives you a reliable horizontal on every line, which matters more than any pen you own — a beautifully inked drawing that is half a degree out still looks wrong.

An A3 board covers most first-year work and fits on a desk in student accommodation. If you have the room and you already know you are staying the course, the larger parallel-motion boards are a four-year purchase rather than a one-year one.

Pencils: fewer than you think

The temptation is a full tin of graphite in every grade. In practice, first-year technical work lives in a narrow band. A 2mm clutch pencil with a couple of grades of lead will do the overwhelming majority of it, and it never needs sharpening down to a stub — you spin the lead to a point with a lead sharpener that costs less than a coffee and lasts the whole degree.

Keep a soft grade for thumbnails and shading, and leave the twenty-four-piece set for later.

The things nobody puts on the list

Three small items that separate a clean drawing from a smudged one:

An erasing shield. A thin steel plate with slots punched in it. You erase the line you meant to erase and nothing else. It costs almost nothing and it will save a drawing at least once a term.

Detail paper. Translucent sketch roll is how architects actually work — you lay it over a drawing, trace what is working, change what isn't, and repeat. It is the cheapest way to iterate, and it is why architects' desks are covered in yellowish flimsy. If you prefer sheets to a roll, the tracing pads do the same job.

An adjustable set square. One tool instead of three, and it handles the awkward angles that a fixed 45 and 30/60 pair will not.

Grey markers, eventually

Marker rendering is a skill worth having and it does not need to happen in October. When you get there, start with greys rather than colour — learning to read a building in tone is the hard part, and colour on top of a bad tonal drawing does not rescue it. There is a dedicated architecture marker set when you are ready to commit.

What can wait

Compasses and circle templates until a module asks for them. Full colour marker sets. A cutting mat larger than your desk. Model-making materials before you know what you are modelling — the brief will tell you, and buying ahead usually means buying the wrong thing.

Two books worth having

Reading lists cover theory. For the drawing itself, 100 Buildings & Architectural Forms is a sourcebook you will keep going back to, and Drawing Architecture is a genuinely useful start if freehand is not yet a strength.

Come and see it

The reason we hold this stock in Belfast rather than sending you to a website is simple: a drawing board, a portfolio and a set square are things you want to handle before you buy. Weight, size, whether it will fit on your desk or in the boot of a car — none of that comes across in a product photo.

We are on Callender Street, in the heart of the city. Bring your list in and we will help you work through it.

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